Shoes, Pottery and a Passport

On my trip to Merida in September I made sure to take a trip to Ticul.  Ticul is known for two things…pottery and shoes.  I’m no shoe whore but I do have a brother and nephew who both wear size 15 shoes and thought I might find someone who could custom make a few pairs for my favorite men. 

Unfortunately, 99% of the shoemakers in Ticul produce shoes for women.  With the help of a local hotel manager I was able to finally hunt down someone who will be able to accommodate me.  On me next trip I’ll bring extremely large tracings of their feet and contribute to the local economy.

As for pottery, I stopped by the only pottery shop I could find in town and wandered through shelves of ‘Mexican Suns’, planters and glyphs.  Suddenly I was drawn to a corner of the shop and found a jar with a skeleton straddling the face of the jar.  It wasn't "pretty" but I felt that I had to have it.  Hands on hips and a bit defiant but also very comforting in my eyes, which suprised me. 

The pottery here isn't poured into molds and fired in machine made kilns.  It's crafted by hand and fired in a decades old, wood fed kilns.  For a piece to come out unscathed shows remarkable skill that has to be admired.

The owner of the shop told me the figure on the jar was Cimi.  Cimi is often associated with death.  As best as I could gather, he represents the opportunity to let go and remember spirit…of transformation and change…of having faith in the Universe and evolving past victimhood.  Contribution to society and sacrifice for others are also virtues of Cimi.

My mother passed away this summer at age 82.  She was my best friend. 

She was born on November 1^st…Dia de Los Muertos.  She faced many losses and challenges in her life.  Widowed at 32 and then again at 63 she never played the victim.  She had amazing faith and while she was a churchgoer, she always thought the most beautiful cathedrals were found out of doors.  Denali, the mesas of New Mexico, the forests of the Pacific Northwest, the Hudson Valley.  She volunteered and found ways to contribute long after her sight and body had failed her.  Her reward for all her efforts was that at 82, her mind and spirit were younger than I remember as a child. 

I have never believed that a person’s physical body represented who they were.  I believe that those that have passed on are still very much with us. 

And my point?  I misplaced my passport five years ago.  Before leaving for Merida, I knew I didn’t have much time to replace it.  The night before I was heading downtown to apply for a new passport I had a dream and in the dream, my mother appeared and said, simply “You know where it is”.  I woke up, went to the closet, grabbed an old purse I'd forgotten about and spilled it on the bed. Out fell a journal I didn’t recognized.  The journal fell open and there was my passport.

Thanks Mom.  Thanks Cimi.

A Wonderful Week

My trip to Merida and surrounds began in Merida.  The few nights in Luz en Yucatan were perfect.  Close to everything in Centro and a great place to wind down midday.

I love the water.  The sea, a puddle or a pool...any one will make me happy and I found them all that week.

Below my balcony in Merida was a perfect pool that saved me after an insanely hot day...

An evening rain in Centro...



A lush and lovely oasis at the Lodge at Uxmal.  Whenever I'm in Uxmal, I treat myself to a stay at the Lodge...

The palms and pool at Flamingos Inn...perfect.  I felt like I'd come home the minute I arrived in Chuburna Puerto...

Having the Gulf right off my terrace was beyond beautiful...

And then home again to my glorious Hudson River.

Two Dogs in Chuburna?

I've been back from my house hunting expedition for a month now and I've had time to digest everything.

Merida was more lovely than I remember.  The people just as warm, the architecture still jaw dropping and the evenings still as magical...

I saw several homes that might have worked for me but then I wandered up to Chuburna Puerto to see a friend and realized that it was where I was meant to be.

Being a New Yorker by birth, city life is part of who I am.  I've always felt at home in the city but for the past ten years have lived with the Hudson River at my doorstep.
I've spent many hours since I returned and realize that I need to settle in a place that's slower paced. 

I love the fact that I can be in New York in less than an hour but at the end of the day, come home to my quiet slice of heaven.

When I realized that Merida was not the right decision, I felt like a bride who was leaving a wonderful, deserving man standing at the altar.  Hopefully I'll be forgiven for walking away.

I'm searching for lot and planning on building a home that fits my needs.  Still it's comforting to know that Merida will be there when I need her.

I suppose my change of heart means having to change the name of my blog...

Last Minute Musings

Having spent time reading others' blogs about Merida so many questions come up.

It seems as though most expats in Merida come in pairs...and I don't.

I'm not a fearful person.  I grew up in New York City and fear was not an option.  I have no problem living alone but then I've never lived alone in Merida.  While house hunting next week, what safety features should I be looking for in a property?  Any neighborhoods that should be avoided?  I want to become part of the community, taking it all in while contributing at the same time.

My experience as a Realtor tells me that I should rent first (which I probably will) but I also know that the market changes constantly...no matter the city or country and I'd hate to miss out on a great opportunity.  I'll have to shelve the impulsive side of me and look at everything with an objective eye.

The blogs I've been reading occasionally mention some problem that is totally foreign to me as a homeowner.  There's so much to learn and I'll have to pay close attention. 

Then there's the question of how long it will take me to learn enough of Merida to actually work as a Realtor.  I'm hoping that within a year I'll be up and running.  For now I'll rely on others' experiences and any advice that comes my way.

Should I Stay or Should I Go?

That song from The Clash has been in my head for weeks now...

My mother Claire (who was my best friend) died a month ago.  She knew I wanted to move to Mexico and we joked that I'd be on a plane to Merida the day after her funeral.  It's not happening the way I planned.

I'm like so many people today.  In my 50's, struggling to hold onto a house that's not worth what I paid, uninsured and tired of treading water. 

And trust me...I'm a strong swimmer.

I'm leaving in ten days for Merida and surrounds to start my search for a new life.  Meeting with a real estate broker and hopefully will be able to pick the brains of other expats to see if this move is right.  My heart tells me it is, my family and friends have their doubts.

I spent twenty five years in the hospitality industry before becoming a Realtor in 2007.  Everyone said I was crazy to go into real estate when the market was tanking.  My response was "It's baptism by fire".  Anyone can succeed when things are going well.  I learned from the best and I learned the hard way.   I'm in the top 10% of Realtors in the county and have done well but at a cost.

I no longer have time to volunteer the way I did.  I work a second job in a wine shop to fill in the gaps.  I have wonderful neighbors and a beautiful home on the Hudson River, but something is missing.

I fell in love with Mexico twenty five years ago.  Things were different then.  The roads were narrower,  accommodations were less expensive, and the exchange was 3,000 pesos to the dollar.  Fortunately, the people and beauty of the countryside hasn't changed.

So I think it's time to start living and laughing again.  My mother would agree.

If I go, it won't be alone.  I'll have Mar and Moose, my two big, black, beautiful dogs to keep me company. 

Wish me luck...Melissa